
I was nervous. Swimming has never been my thing. As a child I never took lessons, and rarely went on lake or ocean-side vacations. I can count the number of times I’ve donned a swimsuit within the past year on one hand. And now, here I was, getting ready to surf (something I never thought to do) in an unpredictable ocean.
I had been watching Justin and Rachel learn first; the powerful ocean waves swallowed them whole and spit them back out time after time. One after another, my anxious thoughts chased each other like kids on a playground: What if water goes in my mouth or up my nose? What if the waves knock my contacts out? What if the salt stings my eyes? What if a wave sucks me under or out to sea? What if the waves pummel me against the rocky shore? What if? What if? What if?
Then, after successfully riding in several waves, Rachel, who had a more intense fear of the ocean than I did, bounded over, beaming, “Amanda, you have got to try it! It’s so much fun!” Okay, I decided, if Rachel, can do this, so can I.
Chad Krause, a native Californian and member of the visiting mission team, was my teacher. “Ready?” he asked. I nodded affirmatively, “Let’s go.”

I strapped the surfboard to my right ankle. We walked out fifteen feet into the wonderfully warm ocean water before I positioned myself, belly down, feet on the board and started to paddle, using my arms as oars. Chad swam behind me, helping me steer into the oncoming waves.
At first, the waves were small; I gently coasted over them with no problem. But as we swam further away from the shore, they became, larger, faster, taller. I tensed all the muscles in my body, fully expecting to be thrown off the board and left fighting for air. I was pleasantly surprised to find that, although I was at times completely submerged, the board helped me to easily navigate the waves. I also had no problem judging when to shut my mouth and eyes and stop breathing, so I didn’t end up with mouth, nose or eyes full of salt water. All right, I think I can do this.
When we were far enough out to sea, Chad helped me turn the surfboard around to face the shore. “Okay, now start paddling again. When the wave comes up under you, you’ll feel the moment that it’s pushing you forward and that’s when you can try to get up on the board. Or you can stay on your stomach.” So far, all the other first-timers had gilded in on their stomachs, so (of course) I wanted to be the first to get up to my knees.

I started paddling forward. As I heard the thunderous oncoming wave, adrenaline started coursing through my veins. The ocean rose underneath me, and then it was pushing me forward with steady force.
It's now or never! I stopped paddling, put my hands on the board, pushed up to my knees…
I became one with the wind, the spray, the sun. My heart leapt, my body soared. I am flying! I rode the wave to shore, grinning like a fool.
What a difference fifteen minutes can make. What a difference saying "yes" to new experiences, to things that make you anxious, things you'd never thought you would do, can make. And now - surprise, surprise - I can't wait to go surfing again!